Summer’s ‘Other’ Island Paradise
by Frank Mungeam, Tour Guide
During winter, nothing says “vacation” like the islands of Hawaii. But when spring turns to summer, I like to get away to the “other islands.” The San Juan Islands, just two hours northwest of Seattle, are islands of adventure, serving up a multi-sport menu of biking, hiking and kayaking, topped off with gourmet dining and luxurious lodging.
The islands receive less than two inches of rain — less than half of what you’ll get in Orlando, Fla.
As a native Bostonian, I vividly recall the “dog days” of summer – hazy, hot and humid. While much of the country swelters, summer temperatures in the San Juans hover in the 70s, with no humidity.
It’s dry, too. The islands lie in a protected “weather shadow” cast by the Olympic Peninsula. As storms move in from the Pacific, the Olympic Mountains wring up to 200 inches of rain from the sky, leaving a modest 29 inches a year for the islands. In July, August and September, the islands receive less than two inches of rain — less than half of what you’ll get in Orlando, Fla.
The San Juans are comprised of more than 170 islands, some less than a hundred yards across and the largest only 10 miles wide. The only way to reach these islands is by seaplane, sailboat or ferry. Since we haven’t figured how to fit our bikes in a seaplane or sailboat, we take the ferry.
“Island-hopping” is easy in the San Juans, and we visit four islands during our bicycle tour. The journey is part of the adventure, thanks to a fleet of “floating cities” that ferry people, bikes and up to 300 cars across Puget Sound. Cars must queue up hours in advance to secure their spot on the ferry, but two-wheeled travelers get to walk right on without waiting. Isn’t that the way the whole world should operate?
Once underway, we enjoy spectacular views from the deck as the ferry navigates between the many islands, while sailboats pass lazily by, all set against the snow-draped summit of Mt. Baker in the distance. The ferries rule the waterway, enjoying the right of way over all other craft but one. Even ferries must wait for the occasional passing pod of orca whales!
A whale of a time
Orcas, often called “killer” whales, are smart and social creatures organized in matriarchal societies. Three resident pods spend spring through fall in the San Juans. The males are especially easy to spot with their extra-large dorsal fins, the orca version of the alpha male. And if you think parenting in the human world is tough, be glad you’re not an orca. Killer whale babies follow their mothers for life.
Our whale watching excursion gives us the chance see these majestic creatures not in some enclosed aquarium but swimming freely in their natural environment — cruising, cresting, spouting and maybe even “breaching.” I’ll never forget seeing a 10,000-pound orca leap from the water, hang in the air, then crash back into the sea.
Fish stories
The San Juans are even more famous for another creature of the sea. Eighty orca whales spend their summer in the San Juans for a reason — they love salmon, just like us! King, Chinook and Coho salmon inhabit the waters of Puget Sound. You probably won’t eat 200 pounds of salmon a day like orcas do, but I have had guests order a different salmon dish every night of our trip, because fish doesn’t get any better than here. By the way, in case anyone asks, orcas like Chinook salmon best.
Islands are for artists
There’s something about island living. Perhaps it’s the slower pace of life. Or maybe it’s those ocean views that calm the spirit and inspire the soul. Whatever the reason, the San Juans offer a feast for the senses as well. From the locally made wines at Lopez Island Vineyards, to the tantalizing aromas of lavender at the Pelindaba Lavender Farm on San Juan Island and the vibrantly colored, hand-crafted designs at Orcas Island Pottery, the islands are for artists and art lovers.
An equal measure of artistry is on the menu at night, where island restaurants offer imaginative menus featuring locally grown ingredients and an amazing assortment of fish as well as classic steak dishes. From the secluded dining at Duck Soup Inn to the bustling hot spots in Friday Harbor, you’ll think the trip is called Dining Adventures. Of course it’s called Bicycle Adventures for a reason. From the miles of coastline pedaling out to American Camp on San Juan Island, to the quiet farm-country roads of Lopez Island and the epic challenge of riding to the summit of Mt. Constitution on Orcas Island, there’s something to satisfy the appetite of every rider. Those who like a mix of hiking and biking can savor two panoramic views with an easy walk up Young Hill on San Juan Island or a more challenging trek to the summit of “Mt. C.”
We also get to explore the islands from water level on a guided kayak tour. As we slip quietly through the water, we often spy bald eagles staring stoically back at us from the tops of trees, seals sunning on rocky outcroppings, and Great Blue Heron slowly beating their broad wings.
After a day of exploration, we unwind in style at two inns to remember, timber-beamed Lakedale Lodge with its broad deck overlooking a picturesque lake; and the casually elegant Edenwild Inn, which boasts multiple awards for its outstanding accommodations and attention to detail. (Sherry and Belgian chocolates in each guest room only add to the already lovely flavor.)
Are you ready for a summer Island adventure?
← Read about our San Juan Islands-Victoria tour
← Read about our San Juan Islands-6 Day tour
← Read about our San Juan Islands-4 Day tour
← Read about our San Juan Islands Camping tour