Canadian Gulf Islands

On Remote Canadian Gulf Islands “The World Was Standing Still”

The Canadian Gulf Islands in British Columbia are an extension of the same island chain that forms the American San Juan Islands in Washington State.  They are similar in that they both present islands with magnificent vistas — accessible only by a short and beautiful ferry ride — and they contain some of the best cycling in North America.  Like the San Juans, the Gulf Islands receive less than 30 inches of rain per year, about the same as some areas of southern California.

Yet the Gulf Islands are different.  They are harder to get to and thus are even less developed and populated than the American San Juans.  However, they have been a favorite vacation spot of Canadians for years, so they have excellent country inns and dining places for us to enjoy.

If you’re looking for a peaceful place to spend a week, the Gulf Islands are hard to beat.  Travel & Leisure described them this way: “The forest gave way to grasslands burnt golden by the sun.  Then the land dropped off and I was standing at the edge, alone.  The water sparkled before me.  Somewhere far below, a tugboat strained to pull a harvest of logs.  I guess it was moving, but from this height it didn’t seem to be; from here, in fact, the whole world was standing still.”

Beautifully Appointed Rooms Await Cyclist

We meet in Seattle on a Saturday morning and shuttle to a park in Anacortes, Washington.  After a bicycle ride around Fidalgo Island, we catch an early afternoon ferry for Vancouver Island and the city of Victoria.  We spend the night at the Laurel Point Inn on Victoria’s Inner Harbor.  Victoria has a beautiful downtown core centered around its Inner Harbor, featuring a festive atmosphere, wide sidewalks lined with baskets of flowers hanging from light posts — perfect for walking, upscale shops, fine restaurants, and many reminders of its British heritage.  We see Victoria Harbor from a fun perspective as we take a water taxi to dinner.

Butchart Gardens and Gourmet Four-Course Meal

Sunday morning, after further exploring Victoria, we head to the Butchart Gardens, a world-famous, lavishly landscaped private park.  After a tour of the gardens (entrance fee included) and a picnic lunch, we cycle through farmland and attractive residential neighborhoods overlooking the water to the ferry that takes us to Galiano Island.  For the next two nights we stay at the Woodstone Country Inn, an intimate B&B in a secluded, pastoral setting.  Here, the beautiful accommodations are surpassed only by the superb, four-course meals.

Cycling and Ferry Ride Lead To Poets Cove Resort and Spa

On Monday we cycle to the northern tip of narrow Galiano Island, through woods and pastures, and along the rocky shore with picturesque views of the tranquil sound and nearby islands.  Like the other Gulf Islands we visit, Galiano is characterized by its many short hills, vista points, rocky shoreline, and secluded coves.

Tuesday starts with an optional pre-breakfast hike up Mt. Galiano.  From the 1,100-foot top you’ll be rewarded with commanding views of the islands below, and ferries navigating the narrow passage between them.  Victoria, the American San Juan Islands, and the snow covered Olympic Mountains are in the distance.  Eagles are often seen circling below, searching for salmon.  This is an exciting way to start the day!

After a delicious country breakfast back at our inn, we have a short and leisurely bicycle ride past hidden coves to a ferry that takes us to Pender Island.  Pender is actually two islands, North and South, connected by a one-lane bridge.  We cycle past artists’ studios, pastures, and rocky coves to lunch at a waterfront park.  We spend the next two nights at Poet’s Cove Resort & Spa, a luxurious new resort that has a full-service spa, fine restaurant, and marina located in Bedwell Harbor.

Guided Kayak Tour Explores Abundant Marine Life

On Wednesday morning you'll have a chance to go sea kayaking.  Bicycle Adventures pays for a local outfitter to provide kayaks and guides for a half-day  excursion.  The Canadian Gulf Islands offer safe and fascinating places to explore coves, marine life, and birds.  No experience is necessary.  In the afternoon you can relax at our inn’s pub, get a massage, play golf, swim in the pool, explore more of the island by bicycle, or walk to beachside bluff with sweeping views of Mt. Baker, the San Juan Islands, and Vancouver Island.

Hot Tub, Private Beach and Award-Winning Dinner

Thursday we explore more of the island by bicycle and hike up Mt. Norman to enjoy views of Bedwell Harbor, Salt Spring Island, and Vancouver Island.  An afternoon ferry takes us to Mayne Island, where we head for the luxurious Oceanwood Country Inn, our home for the night.  As the name implies, Oceanwood combines a beautiful forest setting with a view of a secluded cove.  The inn’s private beach and outdoor hot tub will tempt you prior to dining in the inn’s award-winning restaurant.

Riding on Mayne Island, Looking for Whales

On Friday we cycle around Mayne, a small, more rural island with only 900 residents.  We have lunch at a scenic park, where you can sit on the shore watching ferries, seals, birds, and, if we are lucky, orca (killer) whales.  An afternoon ferry takes us east back to the mainland and the Vancouver airport where the trip ends.  A complimentary shuttle in our van is available from a Vancouver airport hotel to Seattle on Saturday morning.  Some guests may prefer to take a ferry from Mayne Island west back to Victoria for a few extra days on their own on Vancouver Island.

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